ARLINGTON, VA - DECEMBER 2: Cheesesteak for a David Hagedorn story photographed for Voraciously in Arlington, Virginia on December 2, 2020. (Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post via Getty Images; food styling by Marie Ostrosky for The Washington Post
PHILADELPHIA - It is a dead giveaway you aren't from around here: ordering a "Philly cheesesteak." In Philadelphia, it is just a cheesesteak.
The beloved, greasy, perfectly constructed sandwich is synonymous with the city. But the cheesesteak was not born in a gourmet kitchen or a high-end butcher shop. It was a happy accident born on the streets of South Philadelphia nearly a century ago.
The humble hot dog cart origins
The backstory:
The cheesesteak was actually created out of a desire to eat something other than hot dogs.
In 1930, Italian-American brothers Pat and Harry Olivieri were running a hot dog and fish cake cart near South Philadelphia’s Italian Market. One afternoon, wanting something different for lunch, Pat sent his brother to a local butcher to pick up some beef scraps. Pat chopped the beef, grilled it with some onions, and scooped it into a hot dog bun.
As the story goes, a passing cab driver smelled the savory meat, asked to buy that sandwich instead of a standard hot dog, and loved it so much that he advised the brothers to start selling it. The new creation was an immediate hit, leading Pat to open his own brick-and-mortar restaurant, Pat’s King of Steaks, on Passyunk Avenue.
The introduction of cheese
Dig deeper:
Surprisingly, the original 1930s sandwich was just beef and onions—it did not contain any cheese at all.
It wasn't until the 1940s that a manager named "Cocky Joe" Lorenza decided to add slices of provolone to the beef, officially birthing the "cheesesteak" as we know it today.
In the 1950s, the recipe evolved again with the invention of Cheez Whiz. Because the liquid cheese melted instantly into all the nooks and crannies of the roll, it sped up service immensely. Today, Cheez Whiz remains the overwhelming favorite at the original shops, though provolone and American cheese are still heavily debated classics.
An employee makes a cheesesteak sandwich at Pat's King of Steaks in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, U.S. on Saturday, Jan. 7, 2012. The restaurant was founded in 1930 by Pat and Harry Olivieri. Photographer: Paul Taggart/Bloomberg via Getty Images
The great rivalry and local favorites
By the 1960s, the sandwich had caught on like wildfire. In 1966, Joey Vento opened Geno’s Steaks directly across the street from Pat’s. Both establishments stayed open 24 hours a day and engaged in a friendly, sometimes snarky rivalry that transformed the bustling intersection into a neon-lit destination.
However, when you ask a Philadelphian where to find the best cheesesteak, they will almost always point you to a neighborhood staple. Establishments like Angelo's Pizzeria in South Philly, Dalessandro’s Steaks in Roxborough, Jim’s South St., and the James Beard Award-winning John's Roast Pork are widely considered as some of the many gold standards by locals. But nearly everyone has a different opinion on what the best one truly is.
Anatomy and evolution of the sandwich
The Layers:
While purists will fiercely defend the traditional formula, the sandwich has expanded significantly over the past century. Here is how the modern cheesesteak is typically broken down:
- The meat: High-quality chopped or sliced beef, ideally ribeye, cooked on an oiled grill.
- The bread: A freshly baked torpedo roll with a firm crust and soft inside, frequently sourced from historic local staples like Amoroso's or Conshohocken Italian Bakery.
- The lingo: You order it "wit" (with fried onions) or "witout" (without onions).
- Modern variations: Over time, shops began offering chicken alternatives, pizza steaks (with marinara and mozzarella), and cheesesteak hoagies (topped with cold lettuce and tomato). Other common additions include green peppers, mushrooms, and hot cherry peppers for a kick of heat.
PHILADELPHIA, PA - SEPTEMBER 14: Juan Pablo Socino of the Newcastle Falcons makes a cheesesteak at Geno's Steaks on September 14, 2017 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. (Photo by Mitchell Leff/Getty Images)
The Source: This article was written using historical research and reporting from National Geographic, PA Eats, and local Philadelphia restaurant archives.